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Helpful Images PageIntroductionThe following images (or photos if you prefer) can be helpful in understanding the descriptions given for applying the waxes. Applying Glide Wax
![]() Ski after powder (cold or fluoro) has been sprinkled. ![]() Ski after the powder has been tacked down at one spot. ![]() Ski after the powder has been tacked down on entire ski. ![]() Ski after the powder has been ironed. ![]() Notice the cracking that has happened during cooling. This may show that the wax cooled too quickly and may "pop" when scraped. A "touch-up" with the iron in these areas should help. ![]() Scrape the bulk of excess wax off with a scraper. ![]() Clean the groove too. ![]() Brush the remaining excess off the base. Preparing the Kick Zone and Applying Kick Wax
![]() Starting to apply kick wax in the hatched pattern. The pattern has been made wide here for you to see it more easily. A hatched pattern is good for control when crayoning. The layers should be thin. ![]() More hatching in the opposite direction. ![]() Cork the kick wax into the kick zone. ![]() More corking. Notice the first layer is thin. ![]() After corking this layer add 3 to 5 more layers (each corked). Then let skis cool outside for 5 to 10 minutes to adjust because the corking will have warmed the ski and the wax. You want the ski and the wax to be at the nominal outdoor temperature before using or testing. Applying Klister to the Kick Zone
![]() This shows a comparison with two different klisters: silver (top) and (red (bottom). Both are thin layers. ![]() This is another silver (top) and red (bottom) comparison but with thicker layers of klister.
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